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The sun beams down on the vibrant streets of Istanbul’s historic Sultanahmet district. Amid the lively chatter of locals and camera clicks of tourists, a rhythmic chime rings out. All eyes turn towards an ornately decorated cart where a dapper gentleman in traditional garb awaits, ringing a bell with one hand while balancing an impossibly long metal paddle in the other. He is an esteemed dondurmaci – a master of Turkey’s stretchy, chewy ice cream known as dondurma. And he’s about to put on quite the show.

The Centuries-Old Sweet with Tricks Up Its Sleeve

Dating back over 300 years, dondurma differs from its Western counterparts due to a special ingredient – the dried tubers of orchids native to Turkey. This salep powder gives the ice cream an exceptionally elastic texture that allows the vendors to playfully stretch, twirl and swing the frozen treat with ease. 

As crowds gather, the dondurmaci cries out “Bir kaşık bakınız!” (One spoon, look here!) and loads his long paddle with a swirl of the sticky confection. With dazzling dexterity, he begins whipping it back and forth between outstretched cones, taunting onlookers to try and snatch a bite. 

Just when someone believes they’ve captured the elusive scoop, the mischievous vendor sweeps it away in one swift motion, drawing delighted gasps from children and chuckles from knowing adults. It’s all part of the tantalizing floorshow that accompanies each purchase of this prized dessert.

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From Royal Treat to Street Spectacle

While the exact origins are debated, many credit the creation of dondurma to a man named Osman Agha in the late 1700s. As the story goes, he accidentally invented the chewy frozen delight after burying unsold batches of traditional hot salep drink in snow overnight.

Word of the unique treat quickly spread through royal palaces. But it wasn’t until the late 19th century that savvy street vendors began turning sales into entertainment, developing the signature dondurma showmanship still seen today. 

Varieties For Every Taste

These days, dondurma comes in different flavours from classic vanilla and fragrant rosewater to tart raspberry and rich pistachio crunch. Perhaps the most renowned variety hails from the Kahramanmaras region – birthplace of the original salep-based recipe.

Known as Maras dondurmasi, this ultra-thick and resistant-to-melting version often arrives at cafe tables with a knife and fork rather than a cone or cup. Such is its heartiness that many enjoy digging into the dense, chewy mounds like a thick pudding.

Delight for All Seasons

While summer is peak season for dondurma street theatrics and frozen indulgences, salep never goes out of style. When temperatures dip, Istanbul’s dondurmacis transition to salep shops, serving the powder whisked into hot, cinnamon-dusted mugs of warm milk – a cosy winter delight in its own right.

So whether you crave an icy sweet respite from the Mediterranean heat or a steaming mug of spiced comfort on a chilly evening, Turkey’s stretchy, chewy signature dessert is ready to entertain and delight year-round. Just keep your hands poised for those cheeky vendors and their whirling, twirling sweet trickery.